I carry atleast six rods and reel combos with me that are rigged and ready to fish at a moments notice. This way when a particular situation comes up you are perpared for it. Plus, it sure beats cutting your line and retying every time you think what your current using is not working or when conditions change during the day. Sometimes fish will be in a certain “mood” and only after throwing various baits will you find the “hot” one they want that day. At times while sight fishing the flats I often make a cast with one bait (like a Topwater) and if it’s refused or the fish misses, I’ll then follow up with another (like a Jig).

First off, having six complete set-ups is going to get costly, but if you buy quaility gear and build your collection slowly you’ll be fine. Plus, you’ll always have a spare or back-up combos in case something does break while your out on the water. The time you’ll save not having to retie lures constantly will result in more fish and less hassle, so the extra gear will pay for itself quickly. In addition, you’ll be able to match your tackle to the fish for a more sporting and fun experience overall.

The list below gives general categories of lures... actual models or brands are up to the angler as the choices are endless. I’ve developed this list to ensure all water depths (shallow to deep), water conditions (very weedy or wide open) and activitly levels (aggressively feeding to down right sleepy) are covered. With this “Six Shooter” approach you’ll always have a combination ready to handle anything that might show up on the flats or in the backcountry. This list is basically geared to inshore saltwater situations, but with a few exceptions (as noted) it adapts to freshwater fishing very easily. In fact, I based the list on my freshwater Bass tournament expericences where time WAS money and thus you had to be prepared for anything. Also, nothing is worst then watching your fishing partner boat fish after fish as you struggle to find something similar to throw once the bite turns on.

One last item before we get to the list... set up your gear the night BEFORE the fishing trip based on the area and/or fish your targeting that day. Sometimes the first hour of a day can be when the best fishing occurs, so you’d better be ready for a real shoot-out when you arrive at the fishing spot and the sun breaks the horizon.

#1 - Soft Jerkbaits: These baits are so great I often have trouble putting them down and using something else. In fact, I’ve yet to use a single group of lures (including plugs) that covers all the situations a soft jerkbait can. They have such an life-like, wild action you’ll catch fish that will not a bite tranditional baits. Work them on top, allow ‘em to sink, buzz ‘em fast or creep them slowly and just hang-on! Plus, everything (I do mean everything) eats them, from Peacock Bass to 100lb Tarpon and anything in between has fallen victim to a soft jerkbait’s action at one time or another. To top it off, they are totally weedless (when rigged properly), so you can throw way back into places normal lures can’t go. Featuring only one hook they make for easy hook-sets and safer releases (for both the fish and you). If I could only throw one bait all day, every day, and in any place, it would be a soft jerkbait without a doubt. See an article I’ve titled “Jerk Off” to give you the full scoop on my #1 lure and easily the most versitle bait you can throw in fresh OR saltwater.

#2 - Topwaters: If you’ve never fished Topwaters than you can't really call yourself a fisherman! In fact some people become some “hooked” on topwater fishing that’s all the do - night OR day. A Topwater can be any bait, lure or plug that floats, even shallow running crankbaits and/or jerkbaits can be used like topwaters when retrieved slowly or twitched at the surface. I’d rank Topwaters as the best fish finder ever made since they draw fish to the surface where you’ll see action even if you not actually catching fish. This allows you to cover lots of water in search for the most active (and thus easiest to catch) fish around. While most anglers agree topwaters are excellent during low-light periods (such as dawn/dusk) they often forget that most gamefish are - by design - surface feeders. With eyes right on top of their head and an under-slung, large, lower jaw, it is clear that these fish were built for surface feeding. Thus even the middle of the day can be a good time to toss out a topwater lure. I always have topwater ready to throw in case I see something break the surface or bait jumping. Nothing is more heart-stopping than watching a fish (even a small one) crash a topwater plug. See “Top This!” for a full run-down on which styles and retrieves will draw the most awesome surface explosions.

#3 - Crankbaits: Commonly called plugs or stickbaits. Also joking known as “idiot” baits since any idiot can throw one out, reel (or crank) it in and catch fish with them. Crankbaits cover the widest range of lure choices out there, so chances are there is one that will work in the area your fishing. Some are shallow divers, going mere inches below the surface, while some probe the depths all the way down to 30 feet, others can be trolled behind the boat for big game and some are so tiny it takes an ultra-light 4 to 6lb set-up to fish them. This versitity is what makes them a must have lure in your arnsenal - you should have one approiate to the location or water depth your in. They excel in covering lots of water quickly and usually do not require much skill or knowledge to get results with. These baits are also the most fish-like in action and appearance (aside from jerkbaits), especially the trend started by the Yo-Zuri brand that uses ultra-realistic finishes with glass eyes and scale details. One big advantage to plug fishing is that with multiple sets of treble hooks even a near miss by a fish will result in a hook-up most times. Lures in the this category often have various designs/or models that include floating, sinking, suspending and diving, each one is created to carve out a small niche of countless fishing situations and opportunities. Plus they are heavy and easy to cast especially on baitcasting gear. While most people still consider plug a freshwater lure, the Mirr-O-Lure brand builds saltwater specific, heavy-duty plugs for Tarpon and Snook. There are lots of cross-over baits here, including Rapalas, Rat-L-Traps and Bomber Long-As that work equally well in fresh or saltwater situations.

#4 - Jigs: I’m not just talking about the lead head and plastic-tail/skirt kinds either. A jig to me is ANY lure that has a lead head and a single hook attached to “body” and is fished in an up and down (or jigging) motion. This includes, Texas-rigged plastic worms for Bass, feathers or bucktails for Snook, DOA Shrimp/TerrorEyez for Trout and even those small, hollow tube lures that Redfish and Bass love so much. The big advantage to a jig is the ability to drop it down to the bottom and make it hop like a shrimp. Due to thier small profile they drop thru even fast/strong running current with ease. Any time I'm working a deep point like off an island or in a channel I make sure to give the area a few cast with a jig to see if anything is down there.

#5 - Spoons: Funny how no matter how many “new” lures comes out each year the good old Spoon still catches them. In fact, I catch more Bass on Spoons then on Spinner-baits for some reason. I think the advantage to spoons is they are more weedless and quicker to modify with different trailers such as grubs or skrits without messing up their natural side-to-side swimming action. The standard Johnson 1/4 to 1/2 oz Gold, Silver (and even Black) is all you need some days. And a steady retrieve is all it takes to catch fish, this is even easier than crankbait fishing. Since these baits sink like a rock, but have a natural lifting (or planning) action on the retrieve you can pause to let them fall down a drop-off or buzz them quickly along the surface for big sub-surface hits. I suggest you add a swivel to them before attaching your line or leader due to their twisting action. Truthfully a properly designed and retireved spoon should not spin at all, they should WOBBLE, but they still cause line twist unless you reel very slowly which limits their effectiveness. Another advantage to spoons is that they cast like bullets, even in very windy conditions and at times the extra casting distance can make all the difference in the world. Even for a simple, tranditional older design, spoons come in a variety of configurations and colors to try. I've had success on the rattling Red Ripper and the Bait Cradle grub holder designs in addition to the tradition weedless Johnson spoon. Try adding a “trailer” such as a plastic worm tail/grub or spinner bait skrit as a “teaser” if your not getting bites or simply want to fish the lure slower. A trailer will give the bait more lift in the water and allow it to be fished shallower, plus it doubles as a soft weed guard in thick grass or other vegation.

#6 - Back-up: Lure number six is not another lure catergory, but a repeat of one of the other five baits. Most anglers overlook the advantage of having TWO of the same (or similar) lures tied on at once. This serves two purposes: 1) in case the first lure your throwing breaks off from a big fish or from getting snagged somehow 2) in case the rod/reel combo your using breaks or starts acting funny (bail will not close or you get a nasty back-lash). For example let’s say your working a flat and run into a nice school of big Redfish, the first one to hit your Spoon is a monster, he quickly burns off line/drag like a train and snaps you off on his school-mates. Now what... your surrounded by big fish but are lure-less, a back-up bait could save the day at this point. Another option is to rig the same lure on two different class rods. Now when you get into a school of small under-sized Trout you can switch to a thowing a Jig on an ultra-light 6lb outfit to have fun, but once your back into the mangroves go back to the heavy, 30lb braided line for Snook with the same Jig. It’s also nice to have two different crankbaits at the ready, a sinking plug and a floating one - this way as you work an area your can probe deeper potholes or cuts with the sinking plug while throwing the floater up onto the shallow grass beds. Once you get familar with an area and learn the best baits you can put two of them on but in different colors in order to “test” and find the most productive one. Once you’ve got the color perference of the day you can put two of those on and not have to worry if you line breaks or you snag the lure on the bottom, just pickup the back-up and keep fishing (and catching!)